Classic Yet Faceless Beauty

Last December, right before New Year's, I posted a tutorial on making a draping form, just the bust portion. But I didn't show her all decked out, with crochet lace trim, a leafy corsage and strands of costume pearls.

I used unbleached muslin for the drapery but anything would work, if you preferred it bleached white or even with a print on it. Or for more fun, you could put designs on the fabric before draping using fabric paints or stitching, so she'd have a mixed media look.

If you are a quilter or like to do patchwork, that type of fabric could be used too, but a lighter weight fabric would probably look best.

I made her so I could put my necklaces around her neck and show how they look when worn for the Etsy shop photography. Now I just need to get busy and make some necklaces for her to wear!

Follow the tutorial here if you want to see the process. If you make one let me know, I'd love to see what you come up with! And warmer weather will help yours dry faster! So let's all wish for an early spring.

Draping the Form - Part 3

Finishing Touches, Head and Shoulders

Years ago, in a far away place in North Texas, I used to do some theater work, creating costumes and props for plays. Among other jobs during college, I worked at a craft center in a small town in Texas. I put those two things together in kind of an odd way, to create this little shaped and draped neckline form.

This bottle is Aleene's Fabric Stiffener. Some folks who make crocheted stars for ornaments use it to stiffen them permanently, so they'll hold their little six-pointed shapes when they're hung.

It's also good for putting cloth into, to create angels and Santa figures, so the cloth will drape when they stand up.

I'm using it here to give my lightweight bust form a stiff shape, so it will stand up on its own. I think it's just very thick white glue. You could probably use glue if you have that instead. I diluted this as the instructions suggested, but if you use white glue you might not want a 1:1 dilution.

I didn't pre-wash the unbleached muslin cloth before I used it. You could use an old sheet if you have that handy.

I tore the square off instead of cutting it, that way I got a nice straight of grain cut across the cloth. A pillowcase might be large enough, but I wanted to have a large open square of fabric so I could make nice drapes on the form.

If you've ever made a holiday angel for the top of the tree, it's most likely a very similar process.

It's a good idea to check one more time at this point in the process, that the film-wrapped plastic form is very steady and stable on its base.

Then wrap the fabric around the form. I started at the neck, then wrapped the corners around each side and tucked everything in nice and tight.

However large you want the finished form, bring the cloth down on the plastic shape. The stiffener will make the cloth able to stand on its own. But don't close up the bottom, or wrap the cloth across the bottom, if you want to remove the shaping form later as I did. Otherwise you'll have to cut the form open to get the shaping form out.

Mix the diluted stiffener and water together into a plastic container, and dip the cloth right into it, to get it saturated with the stiffening agent.

Then re-drape over the form sitting on top of plastic to catch the drips.

Use your hands to smooth and shape the draped cloth the way you want it.

I added more stiffener onto the cloth after I draped it, to be sure it was good and saturated. It will drip for a while, so be sure you have something underneath to catch the extras drippings, as it will harden and be difficult to clean up if you don't put the plastic or newspaper (or both!) underneath.

Leave it on its own for 12-24 hours to dry completely before you take it off the form.

Resist the temptation to move it, mess with it or change it. Just let it sit and completely dry in place. If it's dripping, wipe up the excess stiffener but don't play around with the fabric now.

It will start to dry from the top down, as the excess liquid moves down the form. Let it dry completely until the lowest level of draping feels totally dry to the touch.

If you put enough stiffener in it, it'll easily slide off the plastic shaping form, but hold the shape all on its own. Be a little careful, it's possible to crush it if you press too hard, it's not like concrete or anything.

You can re-use the form now to make another one, maybe in a different color cloth, if you want. I think one in a deep black cloth would be cool! If you're done, you can unwrap everything and put into the recycling bin and just enjoy your new draping form!

You could do something similar with papier mache instead of fabric. Tearing newspaper into strips, dipping in the glue and wrapping around the plastic-wrapped form. You might have to cut it off the shape afterward, but that might be another neat look for a draping form. I may try that method later, just to see how it turns out. I need to make an earring form, too!

I hope this little tutorial on how I made my draping form is useful to you, if you make one I'd love to hear about it, or see photos, if you'll share them!

Draping the Form - Part 2

Forming the Shape

If you're following along on making the draping form, here's where I got started.

I saved two empty rolls from packing tape dispensers. Those are the large round cardboard rolls.

And two empty milk jugs. They're what made me think of this project. I thought the handles looked like shoulders. These were saved from being crushed and added to the recycling bin.

The tape is blue painting tape, the wide kind. And a roll of plastic garbage bag liners, to put down on the table and also for covering the form later.


The red plastic container is optional, it's an empty container that used to hold flavored coffee grounds - Hazelnut, I think. The black plastic lid is still on it. If you want a bulky form you'll need it. If you prefer a straighter shape on your form, you won't need it. Slim vs bustier.

You'll need a square of muslin weight cloth, 36 inches or about a yard square. I used unbleached muslin, but any cloth that weight will work.

You don't have to go to a lot of trouble getting these exact things if you don't have them. This is just what I used -- if you have something else that's similar I'm sure it will work just as well.
Be creative -- if you find another way to do this, be sure to let me know. This was an experiment!

Tape the two wide cardboard rolls together end to end, and the two plastic milk cartons together with the handles opposite each other. Then tape the cardboard rolls to the top of the plastic milk cartons in the center.

Be generous with the tape. I used the blue painters tape so I could easily take everything back apart, but you could use duct tape if you don't mind the permanence of it.

Then enclose the entire thing in an upside down clear plastic garbage can liner. Tighten it up nicely, tucking and twisting to make everything nice and snug. If you want a thicker body shape, add the rounded coffee container to the front before putting on the plastic liner.

I had a large roll of wide plastic wrapping film, the kind that's used for moving. It's wrapped around things to keep them from sliding or drawers from opening. If you don't have that, I'm sure that regular plastic food wrap would work just as well.

On top of the clear plastic liner, start wrapping the components in the plastic film. Wrap the form up tightly like a mummy.

The film will stick to itself, just keep wrapping until everything is slick and covered and all nicely shaped. Be sure you cover the bottom also.

One last suggestion before we move on to the messy part in the next post - be sure the mummy-wrapped form sits down nicely on its bottom and doesn't want to fall over. If it's a little shaky, now is the time to fix it!

You'll be glad later if you take the time to flatten and solidify the bottom now! Believe me about that part ...

Draping the Form - Part 1

Neck and Shoulders Above All

Many people I admire display and photograph their jewelry using forms, body-shaped sculptural sewing or draping forms.

I always thought it looked really great.


I used to have two bamboo torso shapes, but in the several relocations and moves both of them are now with someone else. One was just a torso, and sat on a metal base. The other one was a full length bamboo mannekin from neck to feet, free standing on her own.


I thought I'd be able to easily replace them, but haven't had success in finding something similar to them again.

I didn't have access to a mannekin or bust, cast off from a store or clothing design loft, something like that. And some of the antique sewing forms, although lovely, are out of my price range. If you find one sometime, give in to that impulse and take it home with you.

This made me start thinking about how I could possibly make something myself. Using wire sounded time-consuming, and possibly difficult to solder. And I wanted something that looked soft and padded. The wire dress forms sounded like something hard and firm, not soft and padded.


I mentioned a while back that I had some ideas about how to make one. I gathered up the things I thought I needed, and last weekend I gave my idea a shot.

Trying it out in the basement, I came up with a greek-looking neckline form, draped in cloth with a long thin neck. It looks like it's wearing a toga, wrapped and draped in folds.

I like it, and I think it will be great to dress it with lace and other trim to accentuate the jewelry photos. I want to try it with some lacy shirts or turtlenecks, to see if it can wear clothes and accessories.

Wouldn't that be fun?

While in this process, I photographed the steps I used to make the form you see pictured here. I had been saving up some items that normally would go into the recycle bin, to use to build this lightweight bust.

So, as a little gift to those of you who might be interested in having a bust like this for yourself, I'll be posting a tutorial and photos the next few days.

I hope you are having a lovely day, with feasting, family and friends - Happy Happy Merry Merry!!