Chaining Linking

I've been thinking a lot about fused silver links.

I love the way they look, the lightness of them and the hand-crafted quality to them, not like manufactured chain. I've been making notes in my little portable journal as ideas come to me.

I'm playing with fine silver wire to make the links. That's almost pure silver, not like sterling silver that's an alloy, these are 99.9% pure silver. Just for fun, I decided to twist the fine wire before forging the links shut.


I didn't know if they would fuse properly, but I wanted to give it a try.

I made these two short lengths, with two twisted wire links and one hammered and textured link.

I think they're really pretty. I decided not to put liver of sulphur on these two three-link sets, because they are so pretty just the way they are. Maybe later I'll patina some too, to make the twists show up even more.


I put them in the Etsy shop, they are really nice with the pewter, I could see them used for a pair of unusual earrings. Or on a bracelet with a focal bead in the center.

Or maybe with a pair of hearts hanging from them, as long ornamental dangly earrings.

I need to make some more pretty quickly and play with them...

Moving Slow

I usually get up and get going on things early on Saturday mornings. But today I slept late. That's very unusual for me. I'm a morning person.

Almost everyone at the office has been sick, or is getting over being sick. So last week was truly busy and challenging, with many folks at home ill.

So I've got a lot to do today. I've got packages to finish, wrap and ship. I've got to send the finished faux amber pieces out after I attach my name label to all the pieces.


This morning I made some chain links. Part were for an order, and some were to add to the shop.

I got really pretty patina on this group. A little blueish, and very warmly golden.

No matter how I try to find a pattern in the colors I get on the fine silver from the liver of sulphur, it's always different.


I think it must be related to the weather somehow. The patina will lighten, if you use a Sunshine cloth on them. But I like the heavy patina, so I leave them.

So I've got to get back in the studio and finish my packaging and make a run to the Post Office.

And maybe stop for some lunch at a deli on the way back. How decadent!

Tuesday Tips Says Alloy, There, Matey!

What's an alloy? It is a combination of two metals that each enhance each others' properties. An example is stainless steel, which is a combination of iron, chromium and nickel metals. So here's some information for your Tuesday Tips on Metal Alloys and why something called "silver" might not have a bit of silver in it!



It can be confusing, talking about metal alloys.

For example, german silver, or nickel silver, which is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc, doesn't have any silver in it, not at all. Many people who can wear silver but are allergic to nickel should avoid german silver because of its nickel content. Interestingly, musical instruments like the flute and french horn are frequently made of nickel silver.


Pure silver, or fine silver at .999 silver is what I use to create the fused silver chain links in these pictures. It's softer by nature than sterling silver (.925) which is an alloy of silver and copper. Those two metals together give the silver more strength while keeping the beautiful look of the silver metal.


Argentium sterling silver is a sterling silver alloy that replaces some of the copper with germanium, so that it is still 92.5% silver but the germanium give the silver a high resistance to tarnishing and prevents firescale during torch soldering.

Some people swear by argentium silver's properties, if they do a lot of torch soldering and don't want the firescale, or if they want their finished pieces to resist tarnishing.

You'll see lovely jewelry and charms these days made with shibuichi, which is an alloy of silver to copper that's higher in copper content. The word means "one-fourth" in japanese because the formulation of the alloy is one part silver to three parts copper. Because of the added copper, shibuichi will patina to lovely and muted shades of blue or green.

I haven't tried casting the shibuichi silver yet, but I've seen beautiful things made with it.


Many jewelry charms are made from pewter instead of sterling silver. Lead-free pewter is an alloy that's usually between 85 and 99 percent tin, with copper, antimony, bismuth and occasionally silver added in various proportions to the tin. To be a true pewter the alloy should be at least 90% tin. These days pewter is lead-free and nickel-free, and the finest quality English pewter contains at least 94% tin.

Britannia silver is an alloy of silver with 95.84% silver and the rest copper, used to replace sterling silver in England after an act of Parliament in 1697. It's a high-grade alloy of silver, even higher in silver content than sterling silver.

Britannia metal is different again from britannia silver. Britannia metal is a pewter-like alloy that doesn't contain any silver at all. It usually contains 93% tin, 5% antimony and 2% copper, and is often used as the base metal for electroplating with silver to create silver plated items like cutlery.

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, while bronze is an alloy of copper and tin. Each has a slightly different look because of the differing metals being used, but they have a warmer color tint than the silver alloys because of the high copper content in them.

So there you are - a list of alloys and their contents. Hope that's helpful and clears away any confusion about metals and mixtures of metals that are alloys.

Fine Silver Links

On the blog left sidebar there's a link to a five-part tutorial on using fine silver wire to create chain, fusing the wire with a torch. If you've never tried it, it can be a bit challenging but very magical, too.

I've been doing a bit of chain making, and got these lovely colors out of the liver of sulphur.


They look a little like gold, a little like copper. With some blue tones in the joined link corners.


The links have definite lateral lines in them for texture. These were made with eighteen gauge fine silver wire, one length is three links and one is five links.

I like to make chain. The links look so much more organic than the store bought chain.

New Necklace Antique Faux-tique

Ornate icons with figures and shiny surfaces, glittering decorations and rough gemstone, make me want to make a wearable piece with this design spirit.

Last Sunday I sat down with a tray full of elements I had made, and tried to come up with a finished jewelry necklace, with this sort of antique, rough but beautiful feeling. I made this Madre Medallion necklace.


The elements included a length of chain I made from highly patinaed fused silver links. This is some of the fine silver wire I got from Rio Grande.

A madre figure element cast from pewter with rough edges and a bronze-copper patina.


A hand cast pewter connector piece with five loops, that could be used for chain and dangles, or a two-strand choker style necklace, very ornate and flowery.


Added to that were some faceted glass beads and briolette shaped shiny crystal-looking beads. And large freshwater pearls with decorated beadcaps and lots of wire wrapping in gunmetal wire.


The fastener is a style I remember from some of my grandmother's jewelry, with an antique bronzed brass color. The kind with the u-shaped insert that slides inside the oval shaped holder and clicks shut.


I really love the way this turned out. I'm very slow when it comes to making finished jewelry, I spend most of my creative studio time making the components so others can create jewelry.

I'm putting together some ideas and pieces for the end of the year holiday season, for a proposed publication project.


This necklace may be just be the first one of those. But it doesn't look too holiday specific, I plan to test-wear it a lot right now. After all, I have to make sure it works okay by wearing it myself, don't I?

Scorch the Wire, Color of Fire

Here are some photos sent to me by Lorelei Eurto, to show me how she's using these forged silver links to make the coolest bracelets, I just love them! And her handmade clasp matches with the links so beautifully.


She used a three-link oval set, and inside one of the links she wired in a beautiful lampwork glass bead for a ZING of color, she calls it "Memory Keeper." FUN - isn't she clever? These are the fourteen-gauge wire links, nice and chunky but still light.


Thank you, Lorelei! I just love this bracelet, it's so summery and fun.

These links in the photos below were just recently made with the eighteen-gauge wire I brought back from Glasshopper Studio on my field trip last weekend, and it's DEFINITELY more difficult to fuse than the twelve or fourteen gauge, the wire heats up faster and it's easy to overheat the link and create a ball-end piece of wire instead of a loop that's fused. Ooops! Happens quickly ... don't blink!

It doesn't seem like the smaller wire and the smaller diameter links would be harder, but they are, believe me. I always fuse the smallest diameter links first, then add the larger diameter links afterward.

Even being careful, I still managed to melt one loop beyond repair, but I've learned to always prepare extra links, just in case.

I did get a nice patina on all of these though, it's a lovely golden-blue color. Maybe because of the humidity, it's been raining a lot lately.

Thanks again, Lorelei, for showing me the beautiful bracelet!

Begin With Glass

Yesterday I took a field trip up to the glass supply shop I like, the Glasshopper, in search of more dichroic glass and fine silver wire.

I thought you might wonder what dichroic sheet glass looks like. And if you've never used fine silver wire for fusing to make links, you might be curious about that too.


Here's a photo of a few pieces of my dichroic glass haul. I scored some great textures and colors. They fuse up so beautifully. And the wire in the photos is 12 gauge and 18 gauge fine silver wire, for fusing projects. I was very low on fine silver wire and I've been making some links for chains. This should hold me for a while now.

Isn't that glass gorgeous, even in its raw state?

Interlinked

These fine silver links were made yesterday and patinaed. I put them in the Etsy shop, I think I want some for myself to make bracelets. I also made some earrings yesterday.


I don't know why I don't make earrings more often. I wear earrings every day, I just don't seem to make them.


I'm making pairs of pewter charms, and polishing the glass drops, I did make them in pairs so I can use them for earrings. I made a three-link chain, with an oval link. And two five-link chains. One has long oval links, and one has more squared, boxy links. They both turned out very nicely.

Ring a Ding

I have been procrastinating, I don't know why.

I finally got these links made this morning, and it didn't take terribly long, I don't know why I wasn't going down to Studio B to get it done.

But I got up extra early this morning, turned on the radio, and listened to the amazing news while I melted silver and hammered rings.

I will remember these rings, they are for someone special! and the morning I made them. I will know exactly what I was doing when I heard the election results.

And if you see me with blue paint under my fingernails, I prepared a couple of 12x12 sheets of cardstock while the rings were tumbling, and I haven't gotten all the blue paint off just yet.

Hey, I'm hearing from the charm / clasp / bead swap folks, and some packages are on their way to me! As soon as I get all of them I'll be shipping them out, and then the big reveal! The theme is 'counting your blessings' and everyone should have their things by Thanksgiving. Can't wait, it will be very exciting.

Heart Links - On the Cuff

Voting Season Polls and Hearts on the Sleeve

I wanted to thank all of you who have voted in the poll, it really does help me focus my time in the studio - and it makes me grin to see that there's no one thing that's way ahead in the polling. We have so many other polls going on in this season, it's fun to have a jewelry poll where you can vote and have immediate effects.

It also makes me chuckle when I look and see that - you want it all. You want some of everything! Okay, I'm adding as quickly as I can, you all are very inspirational that way ...

What's been going on in Studio A lately - the upstairs space where things get assembled, polished and the finishing touches applied?

Made this little heart link, textured and lined, out of fused fine silver.

Hanging on an oval link, it moves when you wear it, and is fun to fiddle with, if you are a jewelry fiddler and fidgeter like I am. I play with my jewelry, and this one is a great fun to play with.

I can see it as a dangle on a charm bracelet, or groups of them joined with jump links or small fused links to make a chain. If you want to see how it's done and the process, the photos and descriptions on fusing fine silver will show up if you use this link. Or check out the label for 'Fused Silver Links' to see more posts about fine silver chain, it facinates me how silver can be made into such useful little charms and links.

Have been playing around with the two-hole zephyr beads, to make a design. This is the first, it's a zephyr cuff bracelet. I used some of my hand dyed costume pearls and bicone acrylic beads, they matched and coordinated very well. It reminds me of some of the costume jewelry from the 1930's that my grandmother had, stored in a drawer in one of the chests.

It's easy to make and quick, looks very vintage. You can make one with any of the colors of the zephyr beads and it would be beautiful, I have dyed costume pearls to match most of the colors. I used an oval and two square zephyr beads, but you could choose all small squares, or one of the big round zephyrs.

I like the cuff style bracelet because it doesn't go all the way around the wrist, so I can easily write or use the mouse with the bracelet on my right arm. I try to make my jewelry the way I prefer to wear it - comfortable, lightweight and easy to get on and take off.


I know some of you like to make the jewelry, and some just want to buy it made up, so you have both options. I'm thinking of making up a kit with all the things needed for the design, to make it easy.

Made up larger, this would also be a great design for a choker necklace, with a big merlot zerphyr round bead and some of my hand dyed deep costume pearls. Pretty for the holidays for parties, or for gifting.

Just got another idea - could use the zephyr beads to make sets of drink charms, to identify wine glasses during a party.

Can you think of other ways to combine these things to make gift and jewelry ideas? Post them!

So what'll it be - more hearts, more charms, or all of the above?

Slinky Links

These three fine silver links were made using 16 gauge wire, fused and hammered, then tumbled.

They are the bright silver, no patina was put onto them.

Each oval link is fused tightly closed to the others, to make a solid chain 3-link unit.





These 3-link units were also fused together from 18 gauge wire to make the elongated links, and they were patinaed with liver of sulphur to darken them, then tumbled for an hour with stainless steel shot.

The patina goes into all the crevices where the links were hammered and give the silver a rich, dark look.




Wanted to try using some of the silver metal clay disks with chain, so the elongated 18 gauge silver wire links were used together with two small round metal clay silver disks.

This is a five-link chain, the first link is rounded and the other two wire links are ovals.

These might look nice at the end of a necklace close to a clasp. Or just one oval wire link with one round disk used together with a silver earwire, to make a pair of earrings.

Could see a wire-wrapped hook closure going with that round link, and some strung pearls on a bead wire at the other end for the necklace.

Making chain and clasps is fun. Now I need to get busy and make some more beads!

Silver Beads and Chains

Pre-Class Preview

I have my class today, using PMC (silver metal clay) with Kate Mckinnon.

I worked with metal clay about 3 years ago, it's the original reason for the purchase of the kiln. Had planned to get certified in teaching metal clay, but life took another direction, as it often does. Starting fusing glass in it, and just didn't go back to the metal clay. Want to create some designs using both the silver and the glass fused together, the glass is so pretty and colorful when used with the pure silver.

Thought before the class I'd take some photographs of beads that I made earlier, before the class. After the class I'll put up some photos of the class results.

These enclosed beads were made using an internal support of cork clay, and one of the reasons for taking the class with Kate Mckinnon is to discuss the safety precautions of using organic items as supports during fusing.


The chain links in the middle between the beads were made with a smaller sized fine silver wire. The loops were two sizes, small and large. The smaller loops were fused closed and textured first, before they were joined with the larger links. Much easier in that order, espcially with the larger gauge (smaller diameter) silver wire.

Fusing the finer silver definitely takes a lot more care, did accidently melt a couple of links before I got the hang of it.

I think that the silver metal clay beads and the fused fine silver links look good together, want to do some designs that combine them.

Have previously had these metal clay beads strung and have worn them, that's one of the beautiful things about beads is that they can be put to many looks and re-used. Want to make up a new design, using the fine silver links and possibly a fused glass toggle. Have to get some more of those made up and into the kiln.

Anyway, off to class! Have the jewelry tools, notebook and camera ready to go.

Wire and Fire - Part 5 - Connections

Fusing Silver Links - Linkages

To pull up all 5 parts of Wire and Fire, the 'Fusing Tutorial' label will bring them together - here's a quick review

Step 1 - Safety Check - Always check your safety setup and make it a routine, safety first, it's tempting to jump right into fusing but it's so important, don't skip this step

Step 2 - Equipment Check - Assemble and use the correct equipment to prepare for the fusing session, check that everything is ready before you start lighting torches and heating metal to avoid delays while working, load the torch with fuel before each session to keep interruptions to a minimum

Step 3 - Create Individual Fused Links - Create the smallest size closed loops first, then prepare wire to create the larger links to join together for the chain


If you are making a five link chain, create the three closed loops first, and prepare the two that will join those together to make the chain. It's a good idea to make extra wrapped jump ring links, in case some don't turn out on the first try you have standby rings ready and can keep linking.

The three large links in the photo at right are fused but loose, and can be used like this, lots of designs for single fused loops look great for earrings and connectors on necklaces. Or they are ready to have two links added to create a longer five link chain.

Step 4 - If you have small loops fused and intend to apply texture using the chasing hammer and bench block, go ahead and do that before adding the larger loops, it's much easier to do before the two large links are passed through the smaller links

Step 5 - Add the linking loops to make the chain

Prepare the firebrick by digging a little trench or ditch in it that's long and wide enough for two loops to fit into and stand upright. The link you are fusing will lie down flat on the firebrick, but now you have the two additional links that need somewhere to go that's stable and out of the reach of the flame from the torch so they don't overheat and melt. The already fused links should be facing away from the torch, and the open side of the wrapped jump link as far to the other side of the loop as possible.

Use a swinging motion in the shape of a letter 'C' on the open side of the joining loop you are fusing. Keep the torch flame away from the other side, where the other links are. The link will fuse when the area receiving the heat starts to glow, shimmer and look like liquid. Watch the area of fusing very closely and be prepared to react when the fusing happens.




Pull the torch flame away immediately to avoid melting the loop - if it happens, quench all the loops in the water and use your standby loops to try again.



At this stage don't handle the links or the firebrick with your fingers. Even though only one link received the fusing heat, the others have received transferred heat and are hot enough to cause a blister. Use the hemostat or metal tweezers to drop the fused links into the water to quench them.

Now there are three links joined together. To add the other fused loop use the last open jump ring and repeat the process, carefully keeping the already-fused links well away from the torch flame.



The photo shows two three-link units. It is trickier the longer the chain and the greater the number of links are added. It just takes practice to learn how to watch the metal as it reacts to the heat. Be prepared to melt a few links before it is perfected. Practice, practice, practice.

The heat of fusing makes the fine silver (.999) wire very soft, or anneals it. The links will need to be hardened again to be able to be used without losing their shape. If you plan on shaping the round links into an oblong or oval shape, do that before they are hardened.

Stretching the round loops to make ovals or oblong links is a good test to see if the fusing is sturdy, if not completely fused they will pop open. If that happens trim the ends to make them flush again, and re-fuse. It's better if it happens at this stage rather than later when you are making a stunning necklace or bracelet and one of the links chooses that time to fail.

The links can have texture applied with the bench block and chasing hammer and be used as they are in a shiny bright silver look. Or they can have a patina applied to darken and enhance the look of the texture and give them that rich antique look. But either way, they need tumbling with stainless steel shot to polish them and further harden the links to make them tough and work ready.

I hope this series of posts about fusing silver has inspired you to give it a try - and that you enjoyed reading about it. Even if you don't want to take a torch in hand yourself, now you know what goes into creating those lovely pure silver chains.

Any questions, comments? Are you going to try it yourself?

Hand Forged Tutorial

One more installment on the fine silver link fusing coming up here soon, on how to join the closed loops together to complete the chain links, but for now, take a look at this tutorial on sterling silver hand-forged hoop earrings on Elizabeth Scott's blog. She makes incredible silver jewelry in her Etsy shop (ES), too. Her designs include impressions of natural leaves and are very organic looking.

Here are a couple of links to more tutorials, Rosette Wire Wrapped Ring and Handmade Earwires, from McFarland Designs.

She has a lot of good photos on using the mandrel to create loops, flush cutting the ends and other things that are useful in fusing the fine silver loops, too. These tutorials were posted some time ago, but some information is always handy and never loses usefulness!